Ecran ducksan star war...
Modérateur : Resp. Ecrans/moniteurs
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Ecran ducksan star war...
L'écran met quelques minutes pour s'allumer. Par contre si on pousse au max le réglage du brightness l'image s'affiche. Cependant lorsque que le flipp tourne 5 min environ l'image devient forcément trop claire....
- epb0
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http://www.meritind.com/Support_Center/ ... sp#MONITOR
) I have a game with a Ducksan Type 59 monitor. The screen does not display until the unit warms up, usually in 20-30 minutes, but the screen will display immediately if heat is applied to the board. Any suggestions on the part that needs to be replaced? (A) The problem may be related to capacitors. The Ducksan Types 19, 20, and 55 also had a common power-up problem.
Start first by changing the following capacitors:
C804: 2.2uF/50Vdc (change C804 to a 10uF/50Vdc)
C805: 10uF/63Vdc
C806: 110uF/160Vdc
C808: 100uF/160Vdc
http://www.pinrepair.com/pin2000/index.htm#monitor
Installing a "cap kit" (a set of new electrolytic capacitors that commonly fail in a video monitor) is often a good idea for one of these monitors. Merit Industries has a parts list for a cap kit for the monitor (frequently failed parts). The list contains proper replacement values for the caps (sometimes different than the original value) as well as the Mouser part numbers to make it easy to order the parts. C804 appears to be one of the most important caps to replace. There is also a monitor suppliment page available here.
) I have a game with a Ducksan Type 59 monitor. The screen does not display until the unit warms up, usually in 20-30 minutes, but the screen will display immediately if heat is applied to the board. Any suggestions on the part that needs to be replaced? (A) The problem may be related to capacitors. The Ducksan Types 19, 20, and 55 also had a common power-up problem.
Start first by changing the following capacitors:
C804: 2.2uF/50Vdc (change C804 to a 10uF/50Vdc)
C805: 10uF/63Vdc
C806: 110uF/160Vdc
C808: 100uF/160Vdc
http://www.pinrepair.com/pin2000/index.htm#monitor
Installing a "cap kit" (a set of new electrolytic capacitors that commonly fail in a video monitor) is often a good idea for one of these monitors. Merit Industries has a parts list for a cap kit for the monitor (frequently failed parts). The list contains proper replacement values for the caps (sometimes different than the original value) as well as the Mouser part numbers to make it easy to order the parts. C804 appears to be one of the most important caps to replace. There is also a monitor suppliment page available here.
Eric
- clcl
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Bonsoir,epb0 a écrit :http://www.meritind.com/Support_Center/ ... sp#MONITOR
) I have a game with a Ducksan Type 59 monitor. The screen does not display until the unit warms up, usually in 20-30 minutes, but the screen will display immediately if heat is applied to the board. Any suggestions on the part that needs to be replaced? (A) The problem may be related to capacitors. The Ducksan Types 19, 20, and 55 also had a common power-up problem.
Start first by changing the following capacitors:
C804: 2.2uF/50Vdc (change C804 to a 10uF/50Vdc)
C805: 10uF/63Vdc
C806: 110uF/160Vdc
C808: 100uF/160Vdc
http://www.pinrepair.com/pin2000/index.htm#monitor
Installing a "cap kit" (a set of new electrolytic capacitors that commonly fail in a video monitor) is often a good idea for one of these monitors. Merit Industries has a parts list for a cap kit for the monitor (frequently failed parts). The list contains proper replacement values for the caps (sometimes different than the original value) as well as the Mouser part numbers to make it easy to order the parts. C804 appears to be one of the most important caps to replace. There is also a monitor suppliment page available here.
Si ce fichu C804 claque si souvent, pourquoi ne pas mettre une tension de
service plus forte pour son remplaçant ?
CLCL
- clcl
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Bonjour,thierry04 a écrit :Bonjour
CLCL : le C804 ne claque pas à cause de sa tension de service trop faible, mais à cause de la mauvaise qualité des condensateurs d'origine.
Dans une alimentation à découpage, on mets obligatoirement des 105° de bonne qualité à faible ESR.
Mais c'est plus cher ...
Merci du renseignement. Je suis ignare en matière de qualite pour les
condensateurs. Tout ce je sais, c'est :
Qu'ils peuvent -perdre des Farads
-fuire
-claquer
Ca fait bien des soucis. Donc, il vaut mieux payer la qualité.
CLCL
- Papo06
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ça me fait penser à collègue au taf qui a bossé un moment sur une chaine de montage de tv thomson il me racontait que sortait 2 modèles, un avec le logo thomson et un autre en noname pour les grandes surfaces avec strictement les mêmes composants/tubes SAUF 2 composants sur l'alim, calculés spécifiquement pour que ça lache au bout d'un temps "pas trop long" histoire de rattraper la perte de marge sur le sav, tout un poème